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Recessed Lighting Installation: A Planning Guide for Washington Homes

Spacing, lumens, color temperature, canless vs housing fixtures and how to handle insulated ceilings.

Recessed lighting is the single most requested lighting upgrade we install. Done well it makes rooms feel larger and cleaner; done poorly it looks like an airport runway. Here is how we plan a recessed lighting installation.

Canless LED vs traditional housings

Canless wafer lights are slim, rated for insulation contact, and install through a single hole with no housing in the attic. They are our default for retrofits. Traditional housings still make sense in new construction or when you want adjustable gimbal trims.

Spacing

A useful rule: divide ceiling height by two to get the spacing between fixtures. In an 8 foot room that is roughly 4 feet apart. Kitchens and task areas go tighter; living rooms looser, often supplemented by lamps.

Brightness and color

Look for 600 to 900 lumens per fixture in living spaces. Choose 2700K for a warm, residential feel, 3000K for kitchens and baths, and avoid anything above 4000K in a home. Buy fixtures with a high CRI (90+) so colors look right.

Dimming and control

Always put recessed lights on a dimmer. If you are adding smart switches, plan the neutral wire at the switch box now.

Insulated and vaulted ceilings

IC-rated fixtures are required where insulation touches the fixture. Vaulted ceilings need sloped-ceiling trims or gimbals so the light points down rather than sideways.

Layered lighting

Recessed lights provide ambient light. Add under-cabinet lights in kitchens, a pendant over the island and sconces or lamps for warmth. We can wire all of it in one visit.

See lighting installation in Bellevue, Spokane or your city.

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